Bulking Up

I started out slowly: your basic mussels steamed in white wine and garlic. And, if I do say so myself, they were great. But—you know me by now—I was already itching to try something different with my newfound bearded buddies. Behold—baked, stuffed mussels on the half shell! All the mussel-y goodness you know and love, but now with a crispy bread crumb topping! And if speed is what you need, then these babies are done faster than you can say seafood!*

*Side bar: I’m sorry, it seems as though my inner advertising copywriter came out a little bit and I attempted to sell you on the mussels. My apologies. I’ll try to keep it to a simple, “I think you’ll like them” next time.

Stuffed Mussels on the Half Shell
Serves 2-3

2 pounds Prince Edward Island mussels, cleaned and debearded
1 c. dry white wine
½ c. fresh basil leaves
½ c. extra-virgin olive oil, divided
1 clove garlic, peeled
¾ c. fresh bread crumbs
1 ½ c. Lemon Zinger tomato sauce (link to previous post)
¼ c. grated Parmesan cheese

Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Add mussels and wine to a large saucepan and cover. Steam on high until mussels open, about 3 to 5 minutes. Drain mussels and set aside to cool.

In a blender or food processor, combine the basil, ¼ cup of the olive oil and the garlic. Process until smooth and pour a bowl. Add the breadcrumbs, tomato sauce and Parmesan to the bowl and mix well.

When they’re cool enough to handle, open each mussel and remove the piece of shell that the mussel has detached itself from. Loosen the mussel from the remaining shell half but leave it in the shell. Lay the mussels on a large baking sheet lined with aluminum foil.

Pack each shell full with the sauce mixture. Drizzle mussels with the olive oil and bake for 7 to 9 minutes, or until lightly golden brown on top. Serve immediately with lemon wedges.

The Lemon Law

On the very off chance that you’re not familiar with the phrase, “lemon laws” are US laws intended to protect consumers from cars that repeatedly fail to meet certain standards of quality and performance. These cars are referred to as “lemons.” The phrase “When life hands you lemons, make lemonade” also references the use of the word lemon as a “bad apple,” so to speak.

I think it’s unfair that lemons are subjected to this negative connotation. What did lemons ever do to us, aside from provide a wonderful natural citrus base for marinades and star in one of my favorite summertime beverages? (Just you wait for my ginger lemonade recipe!) In their defense, lemons are tangy, brightly colored and an excellent source of vitamin C. Lemon juice prevents cut apples and avocados from browning, lemon peel freshens a smelly garbage disposal and lemon oil is a natural furniture polish. And lemons help prevent scurvy, a deadly disease!

So take that, “lemon laws.” How do you like them apples?

Lemon and Rosemary Marinated Chicken
Serves 2

3 tbsp. fresh squeezed lemon juice
¼ c. extra-virgin olive oil
1 tbsp. chopped fresh rosemary leaves
¼ tsp. smoked paprika
¼ tsp. dried oregano
¼ tsp. grill seasoning (chicken or steak flavors will work)
2 boneless, skinless chicken breasts
sea salt and black pepper

In a plastic gallon-sized bag, combine the first six ingredients. Add the chicken, close the bag, and shake gently to coat. Marinate for 1 hour at room temperature.

Preheat a grill pan to high. Remove the chicken from the plastic bag and season on both sides with salt and pepper. Grill the chicken for 5 minutes, rotate 45 degrees and cook an additional 5 minutes. Turn the chicken over and cook for another 4-5 minutes on the second side, or until cooked through. Remove from heat onto a serving platter.

In a small saucepan, bring the remaining marinade up to a boil. Turn the heat down to medium and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and pour over the chicken. Serve with the sautéed mushrooms.

Sautéed Cremini Mushrooms

2 tbsp. unsalted butter
1 shallot, minced
1 clove garlic, minced
8 oz. cremini mushrooms, cleaned and thinly sliced
1 tsp. chopped fresh thyme leaves
sea salt and black pepper
3 tbsp. balsamic vinegar

In a medium sauté pan over medium-high heat, melt the butter. Once melted, add the shallots and garlic and cook for 1 minute. Add the mushrooms, thyme and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and most of the liquid has evaporated, about 6 to 7 minutes. Deglaze the pan with the balsamic vinegar and continue to cook until the vinegar has reduced by half, about 3 minutes. Season to taste with salt and more pepper and serve immediately.

Fake It When You Make It

Not to get all Sandra Lee on you today, but sometimes you need to cut a few corners to get dinner on the table at a reasonable hour (and by “reasonable,” I mean 8, 9 o’clock). We’ve all used shortcuts: bagged salad, minute rice, rotisserie chicken, instant pudding. And, while I’m not espousing using these convenience items as your go-to, everyday standards, I also don’t think there’s anything wrong with turning to them once in a while. Hey, they still beat fast food.

One of my favorite cheat items is frozen, breaded eggplant slices. Perfect for making a quick, fake-out version of the time intensive classic eggplant parmesan, these crispy little veggies taste almost as good as the real deal. I like Trader Joe’s brand, but I’ve seen a few other varieties at grocery stores around town, so you should be able to find one that suits your needs. The slices I buy measure about a quarter inch thick and 2-3 inches in diameter, so I allow 3 per person, but you can certainly adjust the quantity depending on the size of the slices you buy.

Eggplant Par-mock-sean
Serves 2

6 slices breaded, frozen eggplant
8 oz. spaghetti
2 c. Red Pepper Tomato Sauce (recipe follows)
3 tbsp. freshly chopped basil leaves
3 oz. water-packed buffalo mozzarella, cut into small pieces
sea salt and black pepper

Using the oven method described on the box, cook the frozen eggplant according to package directions, or until crispy and brown. (Mine cook for 12 minutes in a 425 degree oven.)

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the spaghetti and boil 7-8 minutes, or until al dente. Drain and divide evenly between two plates. Top each portion of spaghetti with a ½ cup of the tomato sauce. Arrange three eggplant slices over the spaghetti and sauce on each plate and top each plate with a ½ cup of the sauce. Divide the basil and mozzarella and scatter half over each plate of eggplant and spaghetti. Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve immediately.

Red Pepper Tomato Sauce
Makes about 4 cups

2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
½ medium yellow onion, thinly sliced
½ red bell pepper, finely diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
½ tsp. red pepper flakes
1 (28 oz.) can crushed tomatoes
½ c. chicken stock
2 tsp. lemon zest
3 tbsp. freshly chopped basil leaves
¼ c. freshly grated Parmesan cheese
sea salt and black pepper

In a medium saucepan, heat oil over medium heat. Add the onion and sauté until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the bell pepper and sauté 4 minutes more. Add the garlic and red pepper flakes and sauté 1 minute more.

Add the tomatoes and chicken stock and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, uncovered, about 10 minutes. Add the lemon zest and basil and cook 1 minute more. Remove from heat and stir in Parmesan. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

The High Price of Progress

In Mexico, where over 50% of the nation’s families live just at or below the poverty line, sharply rising tortilla prices have sparked protests. Tortillas provide nearly half of the daily nutrition for the poor and a rise in their cost means many will go without the little bit of food they subsist on. Tortilla producers are blaming the hike on the inflated price of corn, as investors are diverting their dollars to crops used for biofuel instead.

In Senegal, the price of bread is beginning to make the dietary staple unattainable for the nation’s poorest. Protesters took to the streets recently, where they called for a government intervention. As a country that imports over 60% of its food, Senegal has little control over inflating food prices and the global supply of grain is being stretched thin by high demands for the dwindling food crop elsewhere.

Throughout Africa, Asia and South America, people are being driven from their land. Plots previously home to lush forests—and families—are being cleared to make room for the planting of crops needed to power the booming biofuel industry, with little regard for the land’s human inhabitants.

Houston, it seems we have a problem.

Once hailed as the magic bullet in the war against climate change, biofuels are now at the center of a major backlash. The use of crops for industrial purposes (like making biofuel) has risen by a quarter since 2000. Now, it’s true that producing fuel from plant crops, like corn and grain, is environmentally cleaner than drilling for oil. Biofuels also typically burn cleaner and are made from a renewable resource. But the growing demand for cleaner energy sources means that lands have to be set aside for growing this new generation of crops. And that land, and the resources needed to sustain it, don’t just materialize out of thin air.

The European Union wants biofuels to provide 10% of all fuels by the year 2020. A lofty goal and one cheered by those who see our dependence on limited oil resources as a type of cancer plaguing the globe. But growing numbers of world food supply experts and humanitarian groups are crying foul, citing statistics like the ones above that seem to indicate the very dark side of biofuels many are unaware (or don’t wish to be aware) of. So, the question is: Could one of our plans to save the planet be harming the people that live on it? And, even more troubling: What do we do now?

All We Are Saying…

Is give charmoula a chance. A virtual unknown stateside, charmoula is a North African staple—a simple marinade typically made of herbs, oil, lemon juice, garlic, cumin seeds and salt (coriander, or what we call cilantro, is also a frequent addition). The texture is somewhere between a pesto and a sauce, but you can make it swing one way or the other (more herbs vs. more broth) to suit your taste. And, although most commonly used to flavor fish or seafood dishes, charmoula is versatile enough to be used on just about any meat—or on any meat substitute, as is the case today.

As we’ve discussed before, tempeh is a fermented soybean cake. Mmmmm. Ok, seriously, don’t knock it until you’ve tried it at least once. Like tofu, it doesn’t have a whole lot of flavor on its own, but that just means it’s primed to soak up a delicious, fresh and herby marinade. Here, charmoula fits the bill perfectly.

Pan Roasted Tempeh and Vegetables with Mediterranean Charmoula
Serves 2-3

½ c. extra-virgin olive oil
½ c. vegetable broth
4 tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1 tsp. lemon zest
2 tsp. salt
½ tsp. cumin powder
4 cloves garlic, minced
¼ c. fresh flat-leaf (Italian) parsley, chopped
¼ c. fresh basil, chopped
8 oz. tempeh, cut into 2-inch squares
1 medium zucchini, sliced into ¼ in. rounds
1 c. grape tomatoes, sliced in half
sea salt and black pepper to taste

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. In a small bowl, combine the olive oil, broth, lemon juice, zest, salt, cumin, garlic, parsley, and basil. Whisk until emulsified. (You can also use a food processor, but if you do, pulse together the dry ingredients first, then slowly stream in the broth and olive oil.)

In a 9-inch glass baking dish, place the tempeh squares. Pour one third of the charmoula over the tempeh and toss to coat. Layer the zucchini on top of the tempeh and scatter the grape tomatoes on top. Pour the remaining charmoula over the tempeh and vegetables and cover the dish tightly with aluminum foil.

Bake for 45 minutes, then remove the foil and bake for another 5-10 minutes, or until the marinade is absorbed and the tempeh browned. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Don’t Pass This One Over

For my non-Jewish readers who may not be familiar with the origins of the holiday of Passover, allow me to give you the very, very abbreviated version of events: After induring generations of slavery, the Israelites made a mass exodus from Egypt. Basically, they got the hell out of dodge.

Today, the holiday is celebrated for seven days in March or April (it varies according to the Hebrew calendar) and the first night kicks off with a Seder, a family ritual that involves drinking wine, eating matza (unleavened bread) and partaking in symbolic foods. It does not, however, involve eating any of the five major grains (wheat, rye, barley, oats and spelt). Abstaining from grains commemorates the fact that the Jews leaving Egypt were in a hurry, and did not have time to let their bread rise (I love how literally this translated into eating matza).

The no-grain mandate seems like it would knock out almost every side dish for the Seder, but there is a loophole of sorts. It turns out that quinoa, our favorite ancient grain, is technically a seed and not a grain! Shocking! Commonly considered a grain because of it’s appearance and texture, quinoa is a relative of leafy green vegetables like spinach and chard, as well as the perfect non-grain grain substitute for Passover.

Rosemary Quinoa Salad
From the menu of R. Thomas' Deluxe Grill, Atlanta, GA
Serves 4, as a side

1 c. quinoa, rinsed
½ red bell pepper, seeded and diced
¼ c. red onion, diced
½ c. fresh corn (about 1 ear)
½ c. frozen peas, thawed
1 tbsp. apple cider vinegar
2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
2 tbsp. water
1 ½ tsp. Dijon mustard
1 tsp. fresh rosemary, chopped
sea salt and black pepper

In a medium saucepan, combine quinoa with 2 cups of water and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook, covered, about 15 minute, or until all water is absorved. Removed from heat. Mix the bell pepper, onion, corn and peas into the quinoa.

In a small bowl, whisk together the vinegar, lemon juice, water, mustard and rosemary. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Pour dressing over the quinoa mixture and toss to combine. Adjust seasonings to taste.

COW- Cheese of the Week

I don’t think I’ve ever seen it on a restaurant’s cheese menu and it’s not available at Publix, but, despite its elusiveness, Idiazábal is a really versatile and easy to love sheep’s milk cheese.

Hailing from Spain’s Basque region, Idiazábal has a rich, nutty and buttery flavor and a firm texture similar to that of more well-knowns like Roncal and Manchego. With a waxy, mold-free rind, Idia (we’re on a nickname basis) is a looker. It’s also a super grater and melts decently, making it a natural pair for other foods. Compared to France, Italy and Switzerland, Spain only has a handful of name controlled cheeses, and Idiazábal is one of them. As such, it’s gradually increasing in US availability, but still has a little way to go to catch up with BMOC Manchego. Ask your friendly cheese monger about it and they may be able to procure some for you.

During production, the cheese wheels are lightly smoked over beechwood, hawthorn, or cherry wood for 10 days, imparting a slightly smoky quality that also reads as a little burnt. I’m no expert in the beverage department, but I think this one would pair well with full-bodied reds, like Merlot. And, as usual, you could…

Try it:
Shredded and sprinkled on scrambled eggs
In wedges, served alongside a paella
Melted over a baked potato
Sliced and pressed with ham or pork on a Cuban sandwich

Foodie Word: Emulsion

In pains me a little to have to admit this, but there are a lot of sciencey things going on with food. The rising of a chocolate cake, the crystallizing of sugar on crème brulee, the molding of a hunk of brie—all are, at their core, scientific reactions. Most of these are satisfying to watch (crème brulee being my particular favorite) but few are as instantaneous at watching an emulsion come together.

An emulsion is the mixture of two (or more) liquids that cannot (or will not, for personal reasons) normally combine smoothly—oil and water being the classic example. Emulsions require a lot of TLC, as you must add one ingredient drop-by-drop into the other whilst whisking rapidly. This action suspends tiny droplets of the liquid being introduced into the receiving liquid, resulting in a satiny textured mixture.

The food dictionary at Epicurious.com informs me that mayonnaise (oil, egg yolks and vinegar/lemon juice) and hollandaise sauce (butter, egg yolks and vinegar/lemon juice) are two of the best-known emulsions. Maybe so, but the best known emulsion to me is also my favorite: hot bacon dressing over spinach salad.

Hot Bacon Dressing over Spinach Salad
Serves 4

8 pieces thick-sliced bacon, chopped
3 tbsp. red wine vinegar
1 tsp. sugar
½ tsp. Dijon mustard
sea salt and black pepper
1 bag cleaned and trimmed baby spinach leaves
2 large hard-boiled eggs, chopped
4 large white mushrooms, cleaned and sliced
½ a red onion, very thinly sliced

In a medium skillet over medium-high heat, fry the bacon until it’s crispy around the edges, about 6-7 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer bacon to a paper towel to drain, reserving 3 tablespoons of the rendered fat.

Transfer the fat to a small saucepan over low heat and whisk in the vinegar, sugar and mustard until emulsified. Season with salt and pepper.

In a large bowl, toss together the spinach, eggs, mushrooms and onion. Drizzle the dressing over the salad and sprinkle with the bacon. Toss to combine and adjust seasonings to taste. Serve immediately.

All the Eggs, 1 Pie Crust

Lest any hostess try to fool you, quiches are one of the easiest things ever to whip up for brunch, lunch or dinner. If you keep frozen pie crusts at the ready (as I do), you need only a few ingredients to customize your quiche experience. Eggs, obviously, are required, but beyond that, anything goes—bacon, ham, cheese, broccoli, sun-dried tomatoes, spinach, mushrooms—you name it, you can use it. Unfortunately for me, eggs aren’t really one of my fridge staples. So, when I bought a shiny, new, hormone-free dozen this weekend, I was primed to use ‘em up. And quick.

But it was after I put all of the eggs into my basket (see where I’m going here…), I discovered that my grocer doesn’t carry frozen artichokes. This was problematic, as I had planned to make a chicken and artichoke dish using some of my freshly procured eggs. And the eggs (and the fresh dill I also bought) that I needed to make the aforementioned chicken didn’t really fit into any of my other dinner plans.

So, rather than turn the eggs and dill into deviled eggs (and eat them all in one sitting—oy) or banish the ingredients to the back of the fridge, never to be heard from again (although they probably would have been smelled again, at some point), I chose to splurge on some beautiful smoked salmon and make a quickie quiche. Waste not, want for quiche not, I always say.

Smoked Salmon and Leek Quiche
Serves 4

1 pie crust, pre-baked according to package directions
1 tbsp. unsalted butter
2 medium leeks, halved and thinly sliced (about 1 cup)
2 cloves garlic, minced
4 oz. cream cheese, at room temperature
juice of ½ a lemon
3 eggs
1 c. heavy cream
6 oz. smoked salmon, cut into thin strips
2 tbsp. fresh dill, chopped
½ tsp. smoked paprika
1 tsp. fresh thyme leaves, chopped
sea salt and black pepper
¼ c. Parmesan cheese, grated

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In a sauté pan over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the leeks and sauté until softened, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 30 seconds. Remove from the heat.

In a large bowl, combine the cream cheese, leeks and lemon juice with a wooden spoon. Add the eggs, 1 at a time, stirring just until combined. Add the cream, salmon, dill, paprika, thyme, salt and pepper and mix well.

Pour the cream cheese-salmon mixture into the pre-baked crust and sprinkle the top with parmesan. Bake for about 45 minutes, until the center is firmly set. (If the crust begins to brown too early, wrap a piece of aluminum foil around it.) Cool on a baking rack for 10 minutes before serving.

Top Show

It seems inconceivable that it took me so long to discover Bravo’s reality cooking competition Top Chef, but now that I’m a viewer, I’m completely hooked. The dishes, the drama, the faux-hawks—what’s not to love?

I was compelled to start watching this season in particular because I read in one of the many Atlanta-based food columns that two local contestants would be in the running. Atlantans Richard Blais and Nimma Osman may not be well-known to the American public, but Nimma is a chef at the much-lauded Repast in Midtown (read my recent review here) and Richard is a local celebrity (and molecular gastronomy superstar), having worked in the kitchens of Two Urban Licks, One Midtown Kitchen and Element, to name just a few.

*****************************SPOILER ALERT***************************

Sadly, Nimma was eliminated in the very first episode for serving some seriously salty shrimp (say that three times fast). One of the judges deemed her plate inedible and she, and her knives, were sent packing. So, that’s left me pinning my hopes on Richard, who has made an impressive showing thus far. In Episode 4, he captured the win with his smoked salmon with faux-caviar and white chocolate wasabi sauce inspired by the movie Willie Wonka and the Chocolate Factory. When his portable smoker when kaput mid-dish, he actually burned wood chips over the fish to impart a smoky note—now that’s thinking on your feet.

If the contestants themselves weren’t reason enough to watch, then host Padma Lakshmi is. Padma, soon to be the ex-Mrs. Salman Rushdie, is a former model who ousted Katie Lee Joel (who inevitably will be the ex-Mrs. Billy Joel) as host in Season 2, presumably because Katie had all the charisma of a turnip. While Padma’s culinary credits are a bit dubious (author of “Easy Exotic: A Model's Low-fat Recipes From Around The World;” yeah, ok), she at least injects some liveliness into the critiques, always fast to announce her displeasure for a dish. And her sizable arm scar (really the result of a car accident, but whatever) gives her just the right amount of “Is she a bas-ass?” intrigue to keep me watching.

If you’re late to the game this season, fear not. In a move that appears to be necessitated by a lack of other quality programming options (Step it Up and Dance? No thank you, Jessie Spano.), Bravo reruns Top Chef constantly. It’s not hard to find a time that they show all the episodes leading up to the current one, so you can not only get caught up, you can get totally hooked. Join me, won’t you?

The Fungus Among Us

You know how sometimes you get an overwhelming food craving? It could be for something so bad, it’s good (fried mac n’ cheese), for something that’s a delicacy (steak with truffle butter) or just for something you’ve neglected to eat lately (mushrooms). In my case, the latter most is the culprit.

I didn’t often eat mushrooms growing up, as my dad disdainfully referred to them as “fungus” and refused to touch raw ones with the proverbial ten foot pole. My mom would sometimes sneak them into her spaghetti sauce, but that was about it. Truthfully, it wasn’t until I ate an appetizer of brie and crab stuffed mushrooms in college (and the heavens shined down mushroom radiance from above) that I began to get passionate about the woodsy little guys. And now, after the advent of the DeKalb Farmer’s Market, I have access to just about every variety imaginable. For those of you that don’t, this recipe is still within reach because I actually prefer the garden variety cremini in this sauce. You’re certainly welcome to experiment with shitakes or chanterelles, but the luscious wine, cream and freshly grated Parmesan combination make a mushroom splurge (have you seen the price on chanterelles?!) unnecessary.

Bowties in Cremini Cream Sauce
Serves 2

8 oz. bowtie pasta
2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
8 oz. cremini mushrooms, wiped clean and thinly sliced
3 cloves garlic, minced
2 tsp. minced fresh thyme leaves
¼ c. dry red wine
1 c. heavy cream
1 tsp. sea salt
½ tsp. black pepper
2 tbsp. unsalted butter
¼ c. Parmesan cheese, grated
2 tbsp. fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped

In a large pot of boiling salted water, cook the bowties until tender, about 8-10 minutes. Drain, return to the pot and cover.

While the pasta is cooking, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat in a large sauté pan. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring, until soft, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the garlic and thyme and continue cooking 2 minutes more. Add the wine and reduce until all the liquid has evaporated. Add the cream, salt and pepper and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer until the sauce thickens, about 5 minutes. Add the butter and Parmesan and stir to combine. Adjust seasonings to taste.

Add the pasta to the sauce and cook until the pasta is just heated through. Remove from the heat and sprinkle with parsley.

Tri It, You’ll Like It

When I was young, the only seafood I would even consider eating was popcorn shrimp from Red Lobster. Somehow, in my mind, shrimp had become divorced from every other sea creature and was permissible only because it “wasn’t really seafood.” Fish, on the other hand, was out of the question entirely. Oh, except tuna sandwiches, I liked tuna sandwiches. The older I got, the more difficult it became to reconcile my bizarre seafood prejudices and I eventually cracked on a trip to MGM (I remember this like it was yesterday) and tried a piece of my dad’s mahi mahi at a restaurant there.

Hmmm, this fish tasted surprisingly… not fishy. It was mild, flaky and really just a vehicle to deliver the delicious butter sauce it was swimming in to my mouth. This experience caused me to have to reevaluate my zero-tolerance policy on seafood. I opened the floodgates—just a hair—and allowed mahi, tuna, salmon and crab to swim into my diet.

Now, all childhood anecdotes aside, I know the recipe for this one looks kind of like a doozy. It’s really not that bad, especially if you prepare the pineapple-mango salsa the night before, as I did. Then, it’s just a matter of cooking some beans and rice and slapping the fish on the grill. And, with all the decorations this fish has got going on, I promise—even if you’re a fishophobe, just try it, you’ll like it.

Tri-Color Mahi Mahi (Green Rice, Black Beans and Yellow Salsa)
Recipe adapted from Susanna Goihman, Azafran restaurant, Philadelphia
Serves 2

Mahi Mahi
2 (6-ounce) mahi mahi fillets
juice of 1 lime
2 tbsp. soy sauce
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Green Rice
1 1/3 c. water
½ c. long-grain white rice
1 tbsp. butter
salt and pepper
4 tbsp. prepared green salsa

Black Beans
2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 red bell pepper, seeded and chopped
½ large yellow onion, diced
12 oz. canned black beans, drained
2 tsp. ground cumin
¼ tsp. sugar
red wine vinegar, to taste
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Pineapple-Mango Salsa
12 oz. canned pineapple rings, juice reserved
1 mango, peeled, pitted, and chopped
½ red bell pepper, cored, seeded and chopped
4 tbsp. fresh cilantro, chopped
3 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 tbsp. fresh ginger, peeled and minced
1 jalapeno, chopped
juice of 1 lime
salt and freshly ground black pepper

In a shallow dish, pour the juice from the canned pineapple, the juice of the lime and the soy sauce over the mahi. Marinate as you prepare rice, beans and salsa.

For the rice, combine water, rice and butter in saucepan. Season with salt. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, and simmer, covered, about 20 minutes. Remove from heat and let sit 5 minutes before fluffing with a fork. Stir in the salsa and season to taste with salt and pepper then set aside, covered, until ready to use.

For the beans, heat the oil in the saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the bell pepper and onion and cook until softened, about 8 minutes. Stir in the black beans, sugar and cumin. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the vinegar and season to taste with salt and pepper. Cover and set aside.

For the salsa, preheat a grill pan over high heat. Grill the pineapple rings, turning once, until charred, 3-4 minutes on each side. Transfer the rings to a cutting board and let cool slightly before chopping into small pieces.

In a medium bowl, combine the pineapple, mango, bell pepper, cilantro, oil, ginger, jalapeno, and the juice of the lime. Season to taste with salt and pepper and set aside.

For the mahi mahi, wipe any charred bits from the pineapple off the grill pan and return it to medium-high heat. Remove the fish from the marinade and season liberally with salt and pepper on both sides. Sear the fillets, turning once, until well browned and just cooked through, about 4 minutes per side.

Divide the rice and beans among two plates, top with the fillets, and spoon some the salsa over each. (There will be salsa leftover.)

Feeling Crabby

A particularly irritating work week has left me in need of a dish that 1) puts me in a better mood; 2) somehow represents the angst I’m feeling and 3) doesn’t require the grating of carrots. So, a piping hot bowl of crab and corn chowder (no carrots included) sounded like it would fit the bill nicely.

Although the recipe I modified to come up with my own version of this chowder said it serves 4, I can assure you that it would easily feed 6. With leftovers. It also said that using canned crab was fine, but, unless you want little crab particles floating everywhere instead of chunks of real, savory crab meat, I’d go with the good stuff (i.e.- fresh). Just remember to pick through the meat for any shell bits (finding shell bits would make me angry enough to negate the entire point of making this soup). Enjoy!

Red Crab and Corn Chowder
Serves 6

1 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
4 slices thick-cut bacon, chopped
2 large baking potatoes peeled, halved lengthwise, then halved again and thinly sliced into 1/4 inch pieces
2 leeks, cleaned and white and light green parts sliced ½ inch thick
4 celery stalks, chopped
2 bay leaves
½ of a red bell pepper, chopped
2 tbsp. chopped fresh thyme
½ c. dry sherry
4 c. chicken broth or stock
28-oz. canned crushed tomatoes
2 c. frozen corn kernels
12 oz. jumbo lump crabmeat
3 tbsp. Old Bay Seasoning
½ lemon, zested
fresh flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
salt and freshly ground pepper
hot sauce (optional)
crusty French bread, for serving

In a large pot, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the bacon and cook until it gets crispy along the edges, about 5 minutes. Add the potatoes, leeks, celery and bay leaves and cook for 7 to 8 minutes. Stir in the red bell pepper and thyme, and cook 2 minutes. Stir in the sherry and reduce slightly (about 2 minutes). Season with salt and pepper.

Stir in the chicken broth, tomatoes, corn, crabmeat and Old Bay Seasoning and simmer until potatoes are tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Adjust seasonings to taste.

Stir in the lemon zest and sprinkle parsley over the chowder. Season with hot sauce, if using. Serve with the bread.

Just Deserts

Two desserts in one week, you say! What’s Fresh Parm coming to? Well, for whatever reason, I’ve been battling a major sweet tooth lately (personally, I blame the Girl Scouts and their sinister wares). And after the laborious creation of last weekend’s carrot cake, I was in the mood for a sweet treat that wouldn’t compromise my remaining healthy fingertips.

Behold one of the easiest, most sinfully yummy deserts out there—my friend Mary’s faux cobbler. There’s nothing fresh, wholesome or natural about this one guys, and I simply couldn’t care less. It became a college dinner party staple amongst my circle of girlfriends and I’ve passed it on to others several times over the years, always to rave reviews. I’m sure you can do a dozen different variations of this (canned cherries, frozen pineapple, etc.), but the original is the one most near and dear to my heart. Thanks Mary!

Mary’s Faux Cobbler
Serves 4

butter-flavored cooking spray
2, 12 oz. bags frozen mixed berries
21 oz. can apple pie filling
4 tbsp. sugar
1 box yellow cake mix
¼ c. (half a stick) unsalted butter, cut into pieces
vanilla ice cream for serving

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. In a 9-inch square baking pan, coat the bottom with the cooking spray. Pour both bags of berries and the apple pie filling into the pan and mix to combine. Sprinkle with the sugar and then the cake mix (you may not need the whole box of mix, so just use what’s appropriate to have an even coating over the fruit). Drop pieces of butter over the top of the mix.

Cover pan tightly with aluminum foil and bake for 30-35 minutes. Uncover and continue baking 10-15 minutes more, or until top is browned and fruit is bubbling at the sides. Let cool for 5 minutes before serving with vanilla ice cream.

Batter Royale

I believe that we’ve covered my baking inadequacies before here at Fresh Parmesan. It’s not that I don’t want to improve my mediocre cake and pie skills, it’s just that, well, other people’s recipes usually turn out so much better than my own. Who has the time to bake something that might not end deliciously?

And end deliciously, this cake did. It also ended with 3 broken nails, 4 bloody knuckles and a scene that looked as though the genocide of carrot race had occurred in my kitchen. Grating carrots on the finest side of the box grater really does make a difference in the lightness of the cake, but damn if it isn’t hard labor on a Sunday evening.

Now, the guys over at Bon Appétit really know their stuff, but I don’t believe that means there isn’t room for improvement. The original recipe called for the addition of raisins and pecans to the batter itself, but I’m something of a carrot cake purist and feel as though nut embellishments are best used as a topping. Oh, and the ground ginger is also my inclusion—I love that very subtly spicy zing it gives the cake and I think you will too.

Triple-layer Carrot Cake with Cream Cheese Frosting
Recipe courtesy of The Bon Appétit Cookbook Calendar
10 servings

Cake
2 c. sugar
1 ½ c. vegetable oil
4 large eggs
2 c. all-purpose flour
2 tsp. baking powder
2 tsp. baking soda
1 tsp. salt
1 tsp. ground cinnamon
½ tsp. ground nutmeg
½ tsp. ground ginger
1 lb. carrots, peeled and finely grated
1 c. pecans, finely chopped (in food processor for best results)

Frosting
4 c. powdered sugar
16 oz. cream cheese, room temperature
½ c. (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature
4 tsp. vanilla extract

Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Lightly grease 3, 9-inch round cake pans. Line the bottom of each pan with a circle of wax paper and lightly grease again. Using an electric mixer, beat together sugar and oil until combined. Add eggs 1 at a time, beating well after each. Gradually add in flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, nutmeg and ginger. Gently stir in carrots.

Pour batter into cake pans, dividing evenly. Bake until cakes begin to pull away from the sides of the pans, about 45 minutes. Cool pans on wire racks for 15 minutes, then remove cakes from pans, return to racks and cool completely.

For the frosting, beat all ingredients together in a medium bowl until smooth and creamy.
On a cake platter, lay 4 sheets of wax paper overlapping on all sides, leaving the center open. When cakes are cool, place the first layer on the platter and spread the top and sides with ¾ cup of the frosting. Top with another cake and repeat. Top with the final layer and make sure that all of the cake is covered completely with the frosting. Sprinkle liberally with chopped pecans. (After serving, store remaining cake under dome in the refrigerator.)

East Meets West

Eastern European and Western Caribbean cuisine… strange bedfellows or a match made in culinary heaven? This unlikely pairing was inspired by a recipe I found for a sort of vegetable and pierogie stew. Adding in kielbasa takes care of the Polish influence and seasoning it with a dash of jerk spice brings Jamaica into the mix. For good measure (and to use up the remains of last week’s shopping bounty), I tossed in some zucchini and cilantro, giving the dish a punch of color as well as flavor. But feel free to toss it whatever veggies you have on hand (I could see red bell peppers, squash or kale all working out nicely). ‘Cause hey—what’s fusion cuisine all about if you can’t mix it up? Go crazy kids.

Caribbean-Spiced Pierogie and Sausage Supper
Serves 4.

4 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 large green bell pepper, chopped
1 medium onion, finely chopped
2 tbsp. all-purpose flour
2 small zucchini, diced
1 medium sweet potato, peeled and cut in small cubes
15 oz. chicken broth
2 tsp. Jamaican jerk seasoning
8 oz. turkey or pork kielbasa sausage
1 (16-18 oz.) box frozen pierogies*
15 oz. can black beans, drained
sea salt and black pepper
fresh cilantro, chopped (optional)
hot sauce (optional)

Heat 2 tbsp. of the oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat, then add the garlic, pepper and onion. Sauté until vegetables are almost tender, about 5 minutes. Sprinkle the flour over the vegetables and let cook for 2 minutes. Stir in the sweet potato cubes, broth and jerk seasoning and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer, covered, for 5 minutes. Stir in the zucchini, recover and continue to simmer for 10-15 minutes longer, or until potatoes are fork tender.

In another skillet, heat the remaining olive oil. Add the kielbasa and sauté until lightly browned, 5-7 minutes. Transfer to a plate and keep warm. Wipe any burned bits out of the skillet and use it to pan fry the pierogies (follow package instructions for precise cooking time).

Add black beans to the vegetable mixture and simmer 5 minutes more. With an immersion blender (a potato masher will also work), puree a small portion of the vegetable mixture (you’re just thickening it, not attempting to puree all of the veggies). Season to taste with salt and pepper, then add reserved kielbasa. Season with hot sauce, if using.

Divide the pierogies evenly among plates and spoon vegetables and sausage mixture over. Garnish with cilantro, if desired.

*Side bar- Almost any flavor of pierogie stuffing will work, but I used onion because it’s the only one I could find.

Mighty Meal

Despite enjoying them in restaurants for years, I’ve never made mussels at home. I’m not exactly sure why not—maybe they seemed tricky to cook correctly, or I erroneously believed them to be expensive. Neither of those things are true, however, as I learned last week when I embarked on making my first mighty mussel dinner.

Once again, the DeKalb Farmer’s Market provided all the necessary ingredients, and on the cheap—only $5 for over 2 pounds of mussels and $0.99 for a beautiful bundle of thyme! Throw in some nice, dry Riesling (for cooking and drinking) and you’re more than half way there. And really, with the exception of scrubbing the beards off the little devils, mussels are pretty low-maintenance. They cook up in less than 10 minutes, don’t require an internal temperature reading, and are fun to eat. Just make sure you bring lots of napkins to the table, along with some hot, crusty bread to sop up all that broth. Not to toot my own horn (ok, maybe just a little), but it’s good.

Oh, and as an optional accompaniment, I whipped together some roasted garlic mayo to dip the oven fries in (I cheated and used frozen parmesan and garlic potato wedges). Just be forewarned—there is a lot of garlic going on in this meal. It might not be the best first-date dinner, but it’s perfect for entertaining. Or for a Monday.

Mussels with White Wine
Serves 3-4

4 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
½ yellow onion, thinly sliced
4 cloves roasted garlic (reserved from recipe below)
2 tsp. dried red pepper flakes
1 tbsp. fresh thyme leaves
1 ½ c. dry white wine (I used a nice dry and acidic Riesling)
3, ¼”-thick slices of lemon
2 tbsp. fresh basil leaves cut in a chiffonade
1 bay leaf
2 ½ lb. P.E. Island mussels, debearded and scrubbed (any open mussels discarded)
10 grape tomatoes, cut in half and seeded
sea salt and black pepper

In a large, deep pan, heat oil over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook until soft, 3-4 minutes. Add the garlic, red pepper flakes, thyme and salt, and cook for 1 minute.

Add wine, lemon slices, basil and bay leaf and bring to boil. Add the mussels and cover. Cook until the mussel shells open, stirring once, about 6 minutes; discard any mussels that don’t open. With a slotted spoon, transfer mussels to large shallow bowl and cover with cling wrap. Add the tomatoes to the broth and boil until reduced to 1 cup, stirring occasionally. Adjust salt and pepper to taste. Pour broth over mussels and serve immediately with crusty bread.

Roasted Garlic Mayonnaise

Serves 4 as a dip

1 head garlic, sliced in half

4 sprigs fresh thyme

1 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

¾ c. mayonnaise
2 tbsp. fresh lemon juice
sea salt and black pepper

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Place the garlic on a small sheet of aluminum foil, top it with the thyme leaves, drizzle with the oil, and season it with salt and pepper. Place another small piece of aluminum foil over it and seal the edges. Roast until the garlic is soft, about 45 minutes. When garlic is cool enough to handle, squeeze four of the cloves into a small bowl and set aside. Squeeze the remaining cloves into the bowl of a food processor.

Add the mayonnaise and lemon juice to the food processor and pulse to combine them with the garlic, then puree until smooth. Taste and adjust seasonings as necessary with more lemon juice, salt, or pepper. Serve with oven-roasted potato wedges.

Doggone Good

Dinner has gone to the dogs. You read that right—courtesy of my favorite TV cook-cum-personality Rachel Ray is a recipe for a quiche (with some modifications to suit my style) that people and pups can enjoy together. Now, I’ve expressed skepticism at this concept before. If dogs have a strict list of verboten foods (including garlic and onions), what dish could I ever come up with that would be safe for them and satisfying for me?

Luckily, dog-lover Rachel came up with a solution. Choose dishes that you can season and spice up after you remove Fido’s portion, and use flavorful meats (like turkey sausage) to give the dishes plenty of depth and heartiness. I’m pleased to report that (although she’s not exactly a picky eater) Molly wolfed her quiche down in record time and was soon begging for more. No, wait… that was my human dining companion. Molly, the dog, had a similar reaction.

Dancing for her dinner

People and Puppy Pie
Adapted from Every Day with Rachael Ray, March 2008
Serves 2 humans and 2 pups

1 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
½ lb. uncooked turkey breakfast sausage links, sliced into ½ inch-thick rounds (I used a sausage with green and red bell peppers)
9-inch frozen piecrust, partially baked according to package directions
½ c. shredded cheddar cheese
4 large eggs
½ c. half-and-half
2 tbsp. fresh flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
salt and pepper, for serving (people's portions only)
green salsa, for serving (people's portions only)

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. In a medium skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the sausage and cook until browned, about 5 minutes. Set aside.

In a medium bowl, beat together the eggs and half-and-half, making sure the yolks and whites and thoroughly combined. Gently mix in the parsley.

Arrange the sausage evenly over the bottom of the crust and sprinkle the cheese over it. Pour the egg mixture over the cheese and bake for 40-45 minutes.

Once quiche has cooled slightly, slice some wedges for the pups. Season the people's portions with salt and pepper and top with the green salsa.